Serving diners with adventurous tastes can be a risky proposition. Just ask the amazing restaurateurs behind the sadly perished establishments Nosh and Plate World Cuisine.
But we still have some creative culinary spots giving it a try. Places like Ephemera, Eleven18, Chiba Bar, and Ambli Kitchen + Bar.
That last, Ambli, an upscale and mid-scale restaurant with all-over-the-map (in a good way) cuisine, is one of my favorites in town, and its owners just opened a new restaurant that’s proved to be love at first bite.
Latin Social, next door to Sushi Row, another fave, exudes romance and adventure.
The name might suggest Latin American food, but it actually refers to the romance languages descended from Latin. We’re talking Italy, France, Portugal, Turkey and Greece.
If you like the lobster shooters at Ambli, you’re sure to enjoy the French Onion Oysters ($12), a fun snack you’ve probably never had before. Yes, the French onion dominates the flavor of the baked oyster, but it actually makes it more appealing to folks otherwise grossed out by raw oysters.
But during our first visit, the clear star was the Seekh Kebab ($28), a gorgeously presented dish featuring ground filet mignon on a wide flare skewer, topped with cucumber onion salad, tamarind, cilantro chutneys, garlic yogurt and crispy fries. It almost resembles a colorful sushi roll. And the beef proves so succulent, so complex in its flavor profile, this isn’t just the best kebab I’ve ever had. It’s one of my favorite dishes of any kind in town.
“Love at first bite.” – Warren Epstein
The Portuguese Garlic Shrimp, while a tad more familiar, was perfectly prepared (so many fine restaurants over-cook shellfish) and a delight of zesty, slightly spicy flavors in every nibble.
Rounding out the menu are Turkish and Greek spreads, a raw bar, and such exotic dishes as Corn Chowder Lamb Polenta, Pork Belly Avocado Hummus, a Mezza Sampler that offers a feast of their greatest hits.
The excellent wine list is as globally inspired and adventurous as the food, and the cocktails absolutely rock.
Like Ambli, which specialized in infused cocktails, Latin Social daringly plays with combined flavors. We especially adored the Spiced Manhattan ($18), which infuses Woodford Reserve Rye with garam masala. It’s as good as Ambli’s fig-infused Old Fashioned.
But it’s not just the food, drink, and elegant atmosphere that makes Latin Social so special. It’s also co-owner Pariza Mehta, her sparkling personality always on display as she flits from one table to another.
When you go:
Latin Social
316 N. Tejon St. Suite 100
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Friday, and 5-9:30 p.m. Saturday
Warren Epstein is chairman of The Bulletin’s board of directors and does not accept a fee for his writings here. His views are his alone and do not reflect the official stance of the Bulletin.
